Chris's Picks

Every product here earned its spot. No sponsors. No fluff. Just what works.

If you know me, you know I don't do marketing speak. Every product on this page has earned its spot. These aren't sponsored picks. These are the products I actually believe in. Whether you're chasing 300,000 miles or just tired of throwing money at things that don't work, this is my answer to the question I get asked every single day — Chris, what should I actually use?

Redline SI-1 Fuel System Cleaner

I ran 16 fuel system cleaners through a head-to-head tournament. Primary source data only — Safety Data Sheets, PEA concentrations, chemistry transparency. Redline SI-1 won.

Here's why it earned it. Redline is one of the only brands that actually discloses their PEA concentration on the SDS — 30 to 40%. That's the active ingredient that actually cleans carbon deposits off intake valves. Most brands won't tell you what's in their formula at all. Redline puts it in writing.

This is what I run in my own vehicles and what I recommend without hesitation. One bottle per oil change interval is the protocol that makes sense based on the chemistry.

Power Service Diesel Kleen +Cetane Boost

Most diesel owners don't realize the fuel going into their tank is working against them. Here's why that matters.

When refiners remove sulfur to produce Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel — the only diesel legally sold in the US — that process also strips the fuel's natural lubricity. The components relying on that fuel for lubrication, your injectors and fuel pump, now operate with tolerances measured in microns and reduced protection. On top of that, the national average cetane number of ULSD runs between 47 and 48. The Engine Manufacturers Association says diesel engines operate better above 50. Most tanks are running below the target every single fill-up.

Diesel Kleen addresses both problems directly. Three things it's actually doing:

First, cetane. It boosts cetane up to 6 numbers — which means most tanks will hit the 50+ target with one treatment. Smoother combustion, less power lag, faster cold starts.

Second, lubricity. The Slickdiesel Lubricator formula exceeds the HFRR wear scar specification and their own lab data shows a 160-point improvement in wear scar diameter from untreated to treated fuel. That's a documented number from their technical lab, not a marketing claim.

Third, injector cleaning. It removes both internal and external deposits and prevents injector sticking in High Pressure Common Rail systems and older legacy systems.

One more thing worth knowing — this is the only fuel injector cleaner endorsed by Cummins, the largest diesel engine manufacturer in the world.

How to Use

Add the bottle to your tank before you pump — the fuel filling in naturally mixes it for you. Power Service's directions call for the entire 16 oz bottle per 40 gallons for maintenance, or 20 gallons if you're doing a first-time clean-up on a neglected engine.

Use it every fill-up for ongoing protection. This is a maintenance product, not a one-time fix.

Not for: Gasoline engines. Diesel only. Also — do not add to the DEF tank. This goes in the fuel only. In Florida we don't worry about cold weather gelling, but if you're traveling north in winter below 30°F, switch to the white bottle — Diesel Fuel Supplement +Cetane Boost — for freeze protection.

Who needs this: Anyone running a diesel engine. Trucks, vans, boats, farm equipment, generators. ULSD fuel is a compromise the refiners made to meet emissions standards. This is how you compensate for it.

Liqui-Moly Ceratec

Most oil additives make big claims with nothing behind them. I pulled the SDS and product data sheet on Ceratec before it ever made this list. Here's what the chemistry actually is and why it matters.

Ceratec uses two active systems working together. The first is boron nitride ceramic particles — sub-micron, meaning under half a thousandth of a millimeter. That size is critical. They're small enough to pass through fine oil filters and actually reach the metal surfaces that need protection. Once there, they form a physical barrier between moving parts. The second is a molybdenum compound that works chemically — it bonds to metal surfaces under pressure and heat, reducing friction exactly when your oil film is at its thinnest. Cold starts before oil pressure builds. High load situations where temperatures spike. That's when engines wear the most, and that's precisely when these two compounds are doing their job.

Together they're not just lubricating. They're protecting the metal itself. Liqui-Moly's own technical documentation supports a protection window of up to 30,000 miles per treatment.

Works in gasoline and diesel engines, with or without turbos. Also suitable for manual transmissions and compressors.

Not for: Automatic transmissions, Dual Clutch Transmissions (DCT), Direct Shift Gearboxes (DSG), or wet clutch systems.

How to Use

One 300ml can treats 3 to 5 quarts of motor oil. Add it directly to your engine oil — shake the can well first, the ceramic particles settle. It can go in at your oil change or between changes.

On frequency — Liqui-Moly's technical documentation shows a protection window of up to 30,000 miles per treatment. If you're changing oil every 5,000 miles you don't need it every single change. A reasonable approach is every other oil change, or any time you feel like your engine needs extra protection — high mileage milestone, extended tow, track day.

Use it every change if you want maximum protection. But you don't have to.

Who needs this: High mileage engines, turbocharged engines, anyone serious about making their motor last.

Liqui-Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush

Every oil change removes old oil. It doesn't remove what the old oil left behind. Sludge, varnish, and deposits build up in lubrication galleries, oil screens, and the piston ring zone over time — and fresh oil going into a dirty engine isn't starting at full effectiveness. That's what this product is designed to fix.

The chemistry here is straightforward. The primary carrier is a hydrotreated light petroleum distillate — a very low viscosity solvent base that can reach areas your regular oil film doesn't fully penetrate. The SDS shows a kinematic viscosity of just 3.4 mm²/s at operating temperature, which is significantly thinner than any motor oil. That thinness is the point — it gets into tight passages and loosens what's stuck. The formulation also includes a zinc-based anti-wear compound and a calcium sulfonate detergent, both of which help suspend and move loosened contaminants toward the drain.

Independent testing has documented real results — compression restoration in cylinders that were running low, elimination of hydraulic lifter tapping, and waste oil coming out significantly darker and thicker than a standard drain, which tells you something was left behind that regular oil changes weren't removing.

One thing worth knowing — this product carries a DANGER classification on its SDS due to an aspiration hazard if swallowed. That sounds alarming but it's standard for petroleum solvent products. Handle it like you'd handle any shop chemical — don't ingest it, keep it away from your eyes, wash your hands after use. Normal shop behavior covers it completely.

Safe for use with turbochargers, catalytic converters, and diesel particulate filters (DPF/GPF). Does not attack common seal materials.

Not for: Motorcycles with wet clutches.

How to Use

Engine must be at normal operating temperature before you add it. Pour the full 500ml can directly into your existing engine oil — do not drain first. Let the engine idle for 10 to 15 minutes. Do not drive the vehicle or put the engine under load during this time. Then drain the oil and replace the filter immediately.

One optional step worth considering — some technicians follow up with a short interval cheap oil run, idling for another 10 minutes before doing the final quality oil fill. The reasoning is sound: the flush loosens a lot of material and a quick rinse cycle fully evacuates what's been disturbed before your good oil goes in. Not required, but if you're doing this on a high mileage engine with significant buildup it's worth the extra quart.

Who needs this: Anyone doing a serious maintenance reset on a high mileage engine. Vehicles with unknown service history. Engines showing signs of sludge, oil consumption issues, or sticky VVT solenoids. Anyone who wants their fresh oil working in a clean environment from the first mile.

AGS Sil-Glyde Silicone Lubricant

Most people ignore their weather stripping until it's already cracking, sticking, or squealing every time they open a door. By then you're already losing the battle.

Here's what's actually happening. Rubber degrades two ways — UV breaks down the surface, and dryness causes it to harden and lose elasticity. Once it hardens, it stops sealing. Water gets in. Wind noise starts. And in Florida heat, that process is accelerated compared to anywhere else in the country.

Sil-Glyde stops that cycle. It's a silicone-based compound, not a petroleum product. That distinction matters — petroleum-based lubricants will swell and degrade rubber over time. Silicone won't. It conditions the rubber, restores flexibility, and creates a barrier against moisture and UV.

It's not just doors. Trunk seals, hood contact points, sunroof channels — anywhere rubber meets metal is a place this belongs twice a year.

How to Use

Clean the weather stripping first — a damp rag to remove dirt and old residue. Apply a thin coat of Sil-Glyde directly to the rubber and work it in with your fingers or a clean cloth. You don't need much. Let it absorb for a few minutes before closing the door.

Do this twice a year — spring and fall. In Florida, lean toward three times. The UV exposure here is not normal.

Who needs this: Anyone driving in Florida. Heat and UV are rubber's worst enemies and we live where both are constant.